Asia Adventure 2012: Thimpu to Punakha, Bhutan

Today’s transfer to Punakha was one of the best transfers so far, so it won’t be as dry as the other transfers we’ve done. To kick start the transfer we went to the bank for currency run. It’s always nice to have currency when the hotel’s credit card system is down!

While strolling along the main street, we could see those lazy, napping pooches everywhere. It’s a tough life to party all night until 4am. Apparently, when the government tried to address the dog population by locking them in a kennel, cannibalism ensued, so they are now trying to spay them. The dogs are very docile and well-behaved, lounging around where they might score some food, but waiting ever so patiently until the food is provided. Then they chow down. Mostly you see them lying down napping and due to their mainly nocturnal nature. But some are up and about, curiously inspecting this and that.

Another awesome thing about Thimpu is that there are no traffic lights in a city of 100,000. Well, I suppose there are human “traffic lights”. Gazebos are located in the centre of major intersections and from them, the traffic warden directs traffic.

Generally speaking, Bhutan imports all its meat products because killing animals is inconsistent with their religious beliefs. However, if an animal dies on its own accord, which they all eventually do, then it is okay to harvest the meat.

On the more traditional houses with tin roofs, you will see rocks piled on them to keep the roof intact during high winds. Of course, the modern ones don’t require rocks.

We stopped at a couple of sites on our way out of town. One was the National Memorial Choeten where Thimpu-ians were busy doing their morning prayers. They must walk around the temple in a clockwise direction, always in an odd number of laps, while reciting mantras. We walked around 3 times before exiting the pigeon populated front gate. The other was the Semtokha Dzong monastery where we learned about a common depiction often found is the entrance way to temples depicting an elephant, monkey, rabbit, bird, means harmony to environment in that they equally shared foods and helped each other, only taking what they need, and shows that cooperation is very vital.

Finally, on the Dochu La Pass to Punkha, we travelled through the mountains gaining and losing elevation along the way, passing amazing terraced farming communities before stopping at the Dochula Resort for tea. Unfortunately, due to the fog, our photos of the 108 chortens were not so good and the gorgeous vista was also stolen by the fog. Perhaps on the way back, we will fare better.

Continuing along, we ran into a road-widening construction zone and had to wait for a bit to get through. But eventually we succeeded and found our way to the mountain enjoying the odd early bloomer rhododendrons. They are really gorgeous. Finally, we made it to the Chimi Lhakhang Cafeteria for lunch where we had a buffet lunch filled with awesome veggie dishes and only one meat (beef) dish with an incredible view of the terraced farms. The delicious lunch was topped off with ice cream with a scoop of run. The lunch gave us ample fuel for the short hike to the Chimi Lhakhang temple, the temple of the Divine Madman of Bhutan. Who is he you ask? He was Drukpa Kunley (1455 - 1529) a nobleman from the Tsang region of western Tibet, established Chimi Lhakhang in 1499. He was known for his crazy ways of spreading Bhuddism and enlightening others, mostly women seeking sexual blessings from him, hence his title "The Saint of 5,000 Women". He was also famous for subduing enemies and demons with the might of his penis. Many demons remain trapped in the chorten at Chimi Lhakhang. And it is said that couples seeking an end to infertility seek blessings here. In the surrounding area, many buildings have the Divine Madman of Bhutan’s phallus painted on them as a symbol of fertility. In a way, this story reminded me a bit about Nanabush, the trickster, who had crazy ways, but could do helpful things as well.

After checking in to the Hotel Zangtho Pelri in Punakha, we went for an unplanned excursion to the Kuengandraphodrang Nunnery where Sherab played a rope game with the nuns and we enjoyed a wonderful stroll around the property and a visit into the temple. It was built by the government in 2008 as an opportunity to educate the less fortunate girls. The largest prayer flag in all of Bhutan is located on the property.

A buffet dinner at the hotel was good and we turned in early. Funny how travelling can be so tiring!