Asia Adventure 2012: Monjo to Namche Bazar

Lady Luck is travelling with us for sure. It was awesomely clear last night and today is super clear, so as we trek along the Dudh Koshi Nadi (river), our view of Everest may be completely granted by the sun rather than depending on the mercy of the clouds.

Some Sherpas carry t-shaped wooden sticks that serve a dual purpose; walking stick and pack holder for taking breaks. The basket is stabilized by a rope system that they keep in check with one hand. In addition, they cushion the part of the rope that goes around their foreheads with various types and thicknesses of cloth. Most Sherpas I saw were wearing similar footwear; camouflage patterned rubber-soled running shoe, some with and some without socks. I tell you these awesome fellows make us tourist trekkers look like babies!

We counted one Sherpa carrying 8 cases of 24 cans of San Miguel beer on the top of his basket and who knows what was in the basket. The calculator in Greg’s brain immediately estimated the beer to be around 64kgs plus whatever was inside the basket. For this, they get paid about 5,000 Rupies (equivalent of about $60) and the trip will take them 2 to 3 days. Although we are unsure about this fact, we certainly hope their accommodations and meals are provided on top of the $60.

We were mighty impressed by the Porters in Tanzania who whipped up Mount Kilimanjaro with carrying packs on their heads and moving way faster than any tourist with a light pack. But they were limited to 35kgs, which is about ½ the weight of a Nepalese Sherpa.

Lady Luck was totally on our side! After we crossed over a suspension bridge at the fork of two rivers, we trekked along the Bhote Koshi Nadi (river) towards Namche Bazar, and that’s where we first saw Everest clearly. There were several photo spots of the Everest peak along the way. They were just awesomely breathtaking, each one more so than the last!

We reached Namche Bazar (3,440m) in 3 hours which was way ahead of the 4.5 hours scheduled. It was challenging in some parts being so steep and some of the steps being so high. We stopped for lunch at the Nest at Namche restaurant for lunch. I had a small pot of milk tea and if you look at the picture, you may find “small” tea to have a different meaning in Canada.

Our hotel, the Namche Heritage Hotel, was situation in a wonderful spot to view the massifs. But then again, I think you could enjoy the massifs at any hotel in any direction in Namche Bazar. This is a horse-shoe shaped hub of Everest traffic and is quite built up with hotels, shops, internet cafes, bars, etc.

Our hike to the museum was fantastic and provided the best view of Everest so far. The sun was shining in the perfect direction and the photo opportunity was outstanding. Kagi knows all the great spots!

There is a film crew from South Korea staying in the hotel so it’s very busy. There’s about 90 of them altogether. They seem to have brought all their food as well because none of what they are eating seems to be on the menu. We both had the Sherpa stew to start and I had a mushroom pizza and Greg had the veggie momos. Then off to bed in this fairly rustic hotel, although it does have 24 hour hot water, on a 35 minute demand by flicking a switch in the totally leaky bathroom. All is good!

In 1865, Colonel Andrew Waugh wrote: “I was taught by my respected predecessor and Col. George Everest, to assign every geographical object its true local or national appellation… but here is a mountain most probably the highest in the world, without any local name that we can discover… I have determined to name this noble peak… Mt. Everest.”