Asia Adventure 2012: Singapore to Chiang Mai

Our driver arrived precisely at 6:15am to whisk us away to Singapore’s Changi airport. We relaxed a bit in the Singapore airport lounge at one of the rest stations where we got to put our feet up in lounge chairs overlooking palm trees, trickling water, and tranquil music (and free WiFi). Changi is one of the most impressive airports I’ve been in. There’s so much available here; butterfly gardens, massage, orchid gardens, rest areas, nap areas, security at every gate, washrooms galore, etc., etc. It’s very modern and efficient.

Before we knew it, we were on SilkAir and in the sky again. Our Guide Niran from Exotissimo was there to meet us at the Chiang Mai airport along with our Driver Taong. Once settled into our hotel Banthai Village, we set out on an excursion.

We went up the Doi Suthep mountain in our white minivan to the temple, where we transferred to a red truck to negotiate the bumpy and difficult single-lane road to Ban Khun Changkean, a Hmong village. Red trucks are a popular form of taxi-service in Chiang Mai where passengers sit along two benches in the back and on the Doi Suthep mountain, hang on for dear life!

In the Ban Khun Changkean, we toured the village starting with the school which houses over 200 students of all ages. The Hmong people live a traditional lifestyle dating back over 500 years, where villagers live in harmony with nature. Some modern touches, such as brick extensions to their houses for the cold season (where it gets down to minus 3 C at night), and electricity is making its way into homes. This village had a windmill and solar panel as alternative power sources as well. The community is equipped with a warning speaker system, but Niran says the Chief mainly uses it to make community announcements, such as please attend tonight’s community meeting.

We were fortunate to be able to visit inside one of the traditional homes. Niran knew the village Elder pictured below and she kindly gave us permission to enter. A central fire is always smoldering inside the dwelling which consists of one large room, with a kitchen, central fire area, storage, and common areas. This dwelling also had a brick extension attached and that’s where the family slept. The chickens ran free and the dogs did so as well, but in many cases, they just napped the day away.

Boys Scouts seems to be very popular in Thailand and Indonesia, as it is here in this wee village of about 500 people. So all in all, the Hmong people maintain their traditional beliefs and customs, but are adapting some useful modern conveniences.

According to Niran, the government didn’t know what to do about the Hmong people, so they opted to do nothing. Instead, they offer assistance and conveniences for consideration of the community and leave it up to them to decide to partake or not.

Backtracking our way back down the mountain, we stopped at an Arabica coffee plantation which is part of the Faculty of Agriculture, Chiang Mai University and where a number of Hmong villagers work. We toured the processing section of the plantation where we learned about the process. When picking the beans, the red ones are favoured, dry/bake them in the sun, soak them, then remove the outer shell, then soak them some more to get the inner shell off, then they roast them in the sun for mild, medium, or dark flavours. Then we enjoyed a delicious cup at the café. Unfortunately, we hadn’t had the opportunity to acquire any currency and could not purchase coffee to bring home with us. ;-(

We engaged in more backtracking down the mountain, winding tight curves and negotiating even tighter spaces when meeting other vehicles. We passed by the Phuping Palace and occasionally we snuck sneak peaks of the vista below. Finally we arrived back at the red-truck drop off point where we stopped to visit the temple.

The Phrathat Doi Suthep Ratchaworawiharn temple (Doi Suthep), the royal temple, is one of the most significant temples in northern Thailand. We travelled by cable car up to the temple which was built in 1836 this location according to the white elephant legend. While carrying a piece of Buddha’s shoulder bone on his back, the white elephant climbed up Doi Suthep mountain, stopped, trumpeted 3 times, turned in a circle 3 times, then died on the spot and that’s where the temple was built. It was quite an impressive temple with pagodas, statues, bells, gongs, shrines and was filled with tourists, citizens, and monks. There was also a gorgeous panoramic of Chiang Mai to enjoy through the thick haze.

Later than evening, we dined at the Thanom Potchana restaurant. Greg tried the fried fish, which was difficult to eat and a bit of a disappointment, but he washed it down with a large beer. I had the pad thai and fish/veggie soup, which was very tasty. Of course, all the time, I was feeding the local insects because I forgot my bug spray. The whole meal cost the equivalent of $15.

inside the red truck

tight squeeze

shoes are not worn inside any dwellings or structures

preschoolers at nap time... obviously getting a "Head Start"

lunch room and cooking class

soccer pitch

village Elder

inside a traditional home (with brick extension)

roasting Arabica coffee beans at the Faculty of Agriculture, Chiang Mai University, staffed by many villagers

at the Phrathat Doi Suthep Ratchaworawiharn temple, a very famous temple in Northern Thailand where people come from all around to visit this temple and seek blessings