Asia Adventure 2012: Beijing

Our first stop today was the Temple of Heaven. At the entrance gate we noticed that the park was well populated, particularly with seniors. The retirement age in China is 50 and retirees gather in public areas like this to maintain an active lifestyle; playing hacky-jack, ribbon dancing, racket-ball dancing, tai chi, ballroom dancing, water-calligraphy, choir practice, socializing, and many other things. In some areas, the music is piped in on in-ground speakers. We purchased one of the hacky-jacks knowing that we would need a lot of practice to develop ½ the skills of these seniors! I think I’d like to retire in Beijing. In fact, I am already past 50 and could already be enjoying myself immensely.

We visited the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest is located at the south end of the temple grounds. This is where the emperors of the Ming and Qing Dynasties would worship heaven and pray for bumper crops. Then we crossed through a side door of the Gate of Prayer for Good Harvests. It has 3 doors of which the centre door is reserved for the God of Heaven, who never did show up while we were there... ;-) This gate led us to the 360m long Danbi Bridge (long enough for 3 soccer pitches and some mini fields!) It has a 3m ascent from one end to the other, so it should feel like you are walking to heaven. The centre path was reserved for the gods and it seems there were many gods there today, including me… ;-) Along the bridge is the yellow roofed Dressing Terrace where the emperor would wash his hands and change to his ceremonial clothing prior to the ceremony and afterwards would change again before heading back to the Imperial Palace. The Danbi Bridge connects the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest with the Imperial Vault of Heaven.

The Imperial Vault of Heaven and the Echo Wall is where tablets of the emperor’s ancestors were kept at one point in time. It is flanked by a hall on either side and a gate opposite. It was built in such a way that a whisper at one end could be heard at the other, but we didn’t experience that phenomenon, perhaps there were too many whispers going on all at once.

A few steps away within a walled square, the Heavenly Centre Stone and Circular Mound are located. The number 9 being the highest single digit was representative of the emperor, so the Altar of Heaven was constructed in 9 circles, symbolizing 9 layers of heaven, starting with 9 stones and with each subsequent circle containing 9 more than the last. This same approached was used with the balustrades. The central stone is round and is considered to be the centre of the universe. So naturally, that’s exactly the place I was always meant to be… ;-) During the winter solstice, this mound was used to hold the Worshipping Heaven ceremony.

Many of the 4,000 Cypress Trees on the Temple of Heaven grounds are over 800 years old.

Next on our itinerary was the YongHeGong Tibetan Buddhist Lama Temple built in 1694 which lays claim to being one of the largest and most important Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in the world. About 40 years later it evolved into a lamastery and a residence for Tibetan Buddhist monks and also a Lama administration centre.

Altogether in this lamastery, there are 5 halls separated by courtyards; the Hall of Heavenly Kings (YongeHeGate Hall), the Hall of Harmony and Peace, the Hall of Everlasting Protection, the Hall of the Wheel of the Law, and the Pavilion of Ten Thousand Happinesses.

Entering through the main gate and crossing the shrub lined path we found ourselves at the Yonghe Gate Hall. Many worshippers were lighting large packets of long incense sticks in a large square metal fire pits located in each courtyard and praying to the various Buddhas in each hall. The whole temple was just packed. On the altar inside was a statue named big belly Maitreya Buddha who certainly lived up to his name and on each side of the altar were two of the Heavenly Kings/Celestial Guardians similar to the ones we saw in Bhutan. Past the YongHeGate and into the next courtyard stands a large marble-based bronze incense burner decorated with two dragons playing with a pearl. Next was the YongHeDian Hall, the main building of this temple which houses 3 bronze Buddha statues; past (Kasyapa Matanga), present (Gautama Buddha), and future (Maitreya Buddha). Along the sides of this hall were statues depicting the 18 Arhats (disciples) who helped to spread the teachings. Next was the YongeYouDian Hall which was at one time the living quarters of a prince until after his death, when it was converted into a hall with 3 Buddhas; longevity (Amitayas), medicine (Bhaisajya Guru), and wisdom (Simhanada). Next was the FalunDian Hall functions as a study hall and contains 6m high bronze statue of TsongKhapa, founder of the Yellow Sect lamaism. In the WangFuge Hall, also known as the Pavilion of Ten Thousand Happinesses, there is an 18m Buddha carved from a single piece of white sandalwood, which was entered into the Guinness Book of Records in August 1990. Off to the side of this hall was the Royal Temple of Tibetan Buddhism and an exhibition room.

We had lunch at a restaurant that may have been a temple at one point, but I totally did not catch the name. So if anyone out there knows the name of this amazing restaurant, please let me know. Now I am getting the idea that the portions sizes are just ridiculous and so much food goes to waste. Granted food is very reasonably priced, but it saddens me to see such waste.

After lunch we were off to the Beijing Olympic Park, covering an area of 11.59 square kms, where we enjoyed seeing the famous Bird’s Nest stadium, Water Cube, torch, and media station. The Bird’s Nest was designed by a French architect. While inside the nest, we were remembered watching the opening ceremonies with all the fireworks and amazing performances. At the Water Cube we were mesmerized watched a young diver practice and on the other, we watched people enjoying a massive Beijing Watercube Waterpark. Aidan would have a hayday there! Also visible from the park is the dragon-shaped building called the Pangu Plaza which is an IBM office tower. It is quite unique and impressive as well.

After our busy day of touring on another fog-smog day in Beijing, we settled in for another relaxing evening at the hotel where we put our feet up and relaxed.